Belajar Knitting di YOUTUBE Channel Kami

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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L1zuobdz_w0
Jom belajar knitting secara percuma
**
Dapatkan KIT belajar knitting di www.daknit.com

Knitting: Knit Twin Leaf yang comel :)

Assalamualaikum dan salam sejahtera,

Post ini saya sudah publish-kan di laman saya yang satu lagi (http://www.aheys.com/knittingdanprojeksaya/leaf-and-knit/) dalam versi B.Inggeris. Pattern twin leaf ni sangat comel dan cantik dijadikan sebagai stitch tambahan dalam projek anda. Anda boleh guna pakai pattern stitch untuk untuk projek mengait topi, selimut, baju, dan beg. Bunga daunnya nampak sedikit complicated tetapi jikalau anda cuba langkah-demi langkah insya Allah ianya amat mudah sebenarnya.

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Di atas adalah sampel yang saya kait menggunakan pattern di bawah. Cantikkan? Apatah lagi apabila hasilnya lebih menyerlah setelah di -blocking-. Pattern ini juga merupakan salah satu pattern yang digunakan untuk aktiviti Knit Along (KAL) bersama dengan ahli-ahli Group FB MKCC (Malaysia Knitting & Crochet Community).  Berikut adalah hasil dari sahabat dari MKCC yang berjaya menyiapkan pattern ini membentuk scarf leher yang sangat cantik.

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Ok, semangat lihat hasil mereka, bukan? Jom sama-sama cuba. Saya juga telah sediakan tutorial untuk membantu anda memahami step awal pattern ini. Selamat mencuba !

Saya ada buat tutorial video ringkas (dimana saya menganggap anda sudah tahu asas knitting) untuk pattern Twin Leaf yang saya kongsikan untuk KAL

Di harap videonya membantu ya insya Allah. Kalau nak cuba, mesti kait sama2 ya.

Twin Leaf Lace Cloth
Tutorial ringkas: http://youtu.be/YBp_xDEbizU

Twin Leaf Lace Cloth
© Designed by S.M. Kahn, October 2006
Smariek Knits -=<>=- http://smariek.blogspot.com

Please look at the Notes at the end of the pattern before starting.
Using WW cotton yarn and US7 (4.5mm) needles, cast on 32 stitches.

Knit 4 rows border.
Row 1 : B3, K2, P10, K2, P10, K2, B3
Row 2 : B3, P2, K6, /2, YO, K1, YO, P2, YO, K1, YO, 2\, K6, P2, B3
Row 3 : B3, K2, P10, K2, P10, K2, B3
Row 4 : B3, P2, K4, /2, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, P2, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1, 2\, K4, P2, B3
Row 5 : B3, K2, P10, K2, P10, K2, B3
Row 6 : B3, P2, K2, /2, K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, P2, K2, YO, K1, YO, K2, 2\, K2, P2, B3
Row 7 : B3, K2, P10, K2, P10, K2, B3
Row 8 : B3, P2, /2, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, P2, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, 2\, P2, B3

Repeat Rows 1 through 8 three more times.

Work one more row : B3, K2, P10, K2, P10, K2, B3
Knit 4 rows border.
Bind off and weave in ends.

Notes:

B3 = 3 stitch side border of your choice (I used K3 for my border in both cloths above)

SSK = slip one stitch, slip another stitch, knit these two slipped stitches together

/2 = Right slanting (double) decrease as follows: SSK, then slip the NEXT stitch over the stitch just made by moving stitches from needle to needle. —– Viz. Slip 1 stitch. Slip another stitch. Knit these 2 (slipped) stitches together. Move this resulting stitch to the left needle. Now use the right needle to pass the NEXT stitch over it (the stitch you just moved to the left needle). Now slip the stitch back to the right needle. —– See below for further clarification & walk through if this still does not make sense.

2\ = Left slanting (double) decrease as follows: Slip 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over. (This is exactly the same as the SK2TP notation I have used in my other patterns)

MORE at: http://smariek.blogspot.com/2006/11/twin-leaf-lace-cloth.html

With love,
Er EROGLU
www.senimengait.com // www.daknit.com  // www.aheys.com

Tutorial Knitting: Bind Off/Cast Off (BO/CO)

Nama mata kaitan: Bind off atau Cast Off

Simbol: BO

Sila klik pada gambar untuk IMEJ yang lebih baik dan jelas.

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1. Bind Off ataupun Cast Off digunakan untuk menutup mata kaitan. Caranya ialah, Knit atau Purl stitch seperti biasa dan hanya biarkan 2 sts sahaja pada jarum kanan seperti di gambar atas.

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2. Kemudian, menggunakan jarum kiri, ambil stitch yang kedua seperti langkah di gambar.

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3. Setelah itu, keluarkan stitch kedua tadi melepasi stitch pertama dari jarum kanan.

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4. Lepaskan stitch tersebut dari jarum kiri. Kini anda telah berjaya menutup mata kaitan yang pertama. Teruskan langkah 1 – 3 untuk menutup kesemua stitches anda.

TiPS: Sewaktu membuat bind off, pastikan kaitan anda tidak terlalu ketat ataupun longgar. Jika membuat bind off dalam bentuk pattern-pattern tertentu, cara bind off juga ikut pattern tersebut. Contohnya, jika ingin menutup mata kaitan ribbing, kait dan tutup juga cara yang sama seperti membuat ribbing.

UPDATED VIDEO VERSION LINK: https://www.facebook.com/daknit/videos/886321708058008/:

Tutorial Knitting: Purl (p)

Nama mata kaitan: Purl

Simbol: P

Sila klik pada gambar untuk IMEJ yang lebih jelas.

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1. Untuk membuat Purl, tali benang yang bersambung pada bola benang hendaklah berada di atas jarum kanan seperti gambar di atas. Masukkan jarum kanan ke dalam lubang stitch sehingga membentuk palang X dari hadapan ke atas. Di mana, jarum kanan kini berada di atas jarum kiri.

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3. Kemudian, lilitkan benang mengikut putaran lawan arah jam pada jarum kanan seoerti di gambar atas.

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4. Setelah itu, keluarkan semula jarum kanan yg telah dililit benang tadi dari lubang stitch yang sama. Tali benang yg tertarik di jarum kiri dijatuhkan keluar. Kini anda telah berjaya memindahkan stitch ke jarum kanan. Teruskan langkah 1 hingga 4 untuk membuat p

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UPDATED VIDEO VERSION:

Tutorial Knitting: Long Tail Cast On (CO)

Nama mata kaitan: Cast On jenis Long-Tail cast on
Simbol: CO

Klik pada IMEJ untuk gambar yang lebih besar dan jelas.

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1. Ikut langkah gambar pertama. Selepas anda berjaya membuat slip knot, anda sebenarnya telah pun membuat stitch yang pertama. Pegang benang menggunakan tangan kiri seperti gambar di atas.

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2. Kemudian, turunkan jarum ke bawah seakan-akan membentuk V. Masukkan jarum dari bawah ke dalam lubang di ibu jari seperti gambar di atas.

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3. Kemudian, teruskan membawa jarum masuk ke dalam lubang di jari telunjuk dan keluar semula melalui lubang di ibu jari seperti yang ditunjuk pada gambar.

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4. Lepaskan tali benang pada ibu jari dan tarik tali benang tersebut perlahan-lahan sehingga membentuk stitch yang kedua. Ulang langkah-langkah di atas untuk terus mendapatkan jumlah stitches yang diingini.

UPDATED VIDEO VERSION:

Free Knitting Pattern: Ripple Ruffle Sunny Hat

10252044_273192876196536_2092850119503396731_nFirst of all, the drawing is just something pop into my mind while editing the picture. hehe.. When I was trying to adjust the exposure, I saw a woman wearing this hat from a back view. So i quickly grab my -S- pen and draw it down. And yep! I like it very much 🙂 So here is the pattern I’ve been working on for the passed few days. Enjoy!

**Pattern and all pictures are copyrighted. No resell, no distribution in any forms. All rights reserved by Daknit.Com (please share the link only). You can sell the item made from this pattern for profits but not commercially*

Level: Advanced Beginner

Size made for: Kids (1 year to 3 years old)

Material:
4.00 mm circular knitting needle (straight needle is also okay)
NAKO BABY LUKS MINNOS (colour of your choice)
or any DK yarns/10 ply
(Yarns available at www.daknit.com for purchase)

Accessories:
Flower crochet if necessary
Scissor to cut
Yarn blunt needle/ crochet hook 4.00mm

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
k2tog – knit 2 toghether
ssk – slip slip knit
sk2togpsso – slip, k2tog, pass slip stitch over
bo – bind off
yo – yarn over
kfb – knit front back
m1 – make 1

Gauge: 11 sts = 2 inch, 16 rows = 2 inch (using 4.00 needle)

NOTE:
1. The hat is knitted back and forth
2. Marker is necessary if you need to mark your start.
3. Special stitch : Ripple Fan and Feather

Fan and feather = 14 sts repeat
Row 1 (Right Side): *k1, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, sk2togpsso, yo, ssk, k3, yo* repeat from * to * til last sts, k1.
Row 2: Purl


Instructions:
Cast On 15 sts
Row 1 (Right Side): Knit till end
Row 2 (Wrong Side): Purl till end
Row 3: K2, *M1, K2* repeat * to *, K1
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: K2, *M1,K3* repeat * to *, K2
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: K2, *M1,K4*repeat * to *, K3
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: K2, *M1,K5* repeat * to *, K4
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: K2, *M1,K6* repeat * to *, K5
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: K2, *M1,K7* repeat * to *, K6
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: K2, *M1,K8* repeat * to *, K7
Row 16: Purl
Row 17: K2, *M1,K9* repeat * to *, K8
Row 18: Purl
Row 19: K2, *M1,K10* repeat * to *, K9
Row 20: Purl
Row 21: K2, *M1,K11* repeat * to *, K10
Row 22: Purl
Row 23: K2, *M1,K12* repeat * to *, K11
Row 24: Purl
Row 25: K2, *M1,K13* repeat * to *, K12 (99 sts as total)
Row 26: Knit
Row 27: Purl

Repeat Row 26 – Row 27 until your desired length or at least 10-15cm.

After that, before we do ruffle,
Next Row (Right Side): K1, *kfb* repeat * til last st. turn, ( 197 sts )
Next Row: Purl

Ruffle:
Row 1 (Right Side): *k1, yo, k3, k2tog, yo, sk2togpsso, yo, ssk, k3, yo* repeat from * to * til last sts, k1.
Row 2: Purl

Repeat Row 1 and Row 2 (Ruffle) for 4 or 5 times more.

Then, after done,
Next Row: Knit
Next Row: Purl

Bind Off til end. Leave about 15 cm tail, cut off. Sew seam with crochet hook 4.00mm or blunt yarn needle. Tada! Done 🙂

Last but not least, thank you for trying out my pattern. This pattern is very simple, once you do, it will be so addictive to make more! 🙂

Please and do share your project using this pattern with me at my Ravelry = Snowhitery. Let me know how you think! You can also put flowers, button or ribbons to make it looks cuter! Let your imagination run wild <3

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Note: Please contact me if you found any error with this pattern. I am not responsible for the result you gain by using my pattern if you knit with different yarns. Thank you for trying out this design!  Do share with me your project using this pattern. Pattern is copyrighted.

Designed/Written by,
Ery EROGLU/Ery YUSOF
www.daknit.com

 

 

 

 

Knitting Top Down Guidelines: How I design a top down raglan pullover?

FFK-Cover

(Book author: Kristen TenDyke )

How I design a top-down raglan pullover

There’s one special thing about raglan sweaters that I see overlooked in so many designs.

This one special thing is the depth of the back neck. This is determined by how many stitches are cast on for the sleeves at the neck edge. Half of the sleeve cast-on measurement determines the back neck depth (and the front neck depth if it is worked the same as the back). This measurement, when added to the length of the raglan shaping determines the total length from the shoulder to the underarm, and is important to include for the desired armhole length to be accurate.

For example, if you have 4″ worth of stitches cast-on at the top of the sleeve, that would result in a 2″ back neck depth. And, if the raglan shaping is worked over 5.5″, the total armhole depth is 7.5″. This is an important thing to keep in mind when writing the raglan shaping, because a 5.5″ armhole is a lot smaller than a 7.5″ armhole (Read More at…. http://kristentendyke.blogspot.com/2013/06/how-i-design-top-down-raglan-pullover.html)

Read Japanese Charted Knitting Patterns by Irene Woods

 

What does this all mean?

Please look at the very bottom of the chart. On the left side are three symbols. These are the ones most commonly used, and if you learn only these three, plus the one at the very top of the back armhole, just under the shoulder slope, which somewhat resembles a T, you will usually be able to knit from a Japanese chart. The symbol for rows is the first one at lower left. It resembles a capital F, with two extra arms, coupled to a symbol that often looks like an R over an x. The stitch symbol looks like a ladder, and the times symbol looks like a box with a dot in it. At the lower right is a notation that 10 cm = 31 sts, 52 rows.

For knitters who use the metric system, please ignore this paragraph; you do not need to convert to inches. As stated earlier, 10 cm is almost 4″. Actually it is just a hair over 3.9″ Most of the time, simply dividing by 4 will give you results close enough. That is what we are going to do in this instance. 31 divided by 4 equals 7.75 stitches per inch. 52 divided by 4 equals 13 rows per inch. It might not be possible to match this gauge. We will not tackle the issue of recharting for a different yarn right now. The focus of this lesson is just to learn to read the chart. Looking at the photo, the yarn appears to be similar to Tamm Diamante, in other words a hard finish yarn, not a soft, fuzzy one.

We will begin with the Back. The dotted vertical line means that this is half a pattern; it is similar to marks on the center back of a sewing pattern which indicate it should be placed on a fold of the fabric. The line at the bottom, extending out past the center vertical means that the entire garment width is 42 cm, or 130 sts. The number 1 plus the ladder (stitch symbol) in the band indicate that it should be done in 1×1 ribbing. You are expected to know that ribbing is worked at a tighter tension than Stockinette. In the middle of the Back, the large characters mean “Back” and the smaller ones under them mean “Stockinette”. Usually you will be able to determine this just from looking at the schematic, and at the photo of the garment. So, when knitting this pattern, we cast on 130 sts at tension appropriate for ribbing, which is usually 2 full numbers less than Stockinette tension. Knit even 39 rows, as shown in the vertical space between Back and Front at the band length. Since there are arrowheads at each lengthwise section, we are supposed to turn the row counter back to 000. Change to Stockinette, knit even to armhole, RC 76, and reset the row counter to 000, as indicated by the arrowheads.

At the armhole line, first there the symbols for rows, stitches, times, then the numeral 7 and the stitch sign in parentheses. This means that the shaping formula is rows-stitches-times (every xx rows, decrease xx sts xx times). We will do the armhole shaping, exactly as it is charted. Please note that the same shaping must be worked on both sides.
1. 7 plus stitch symbol = Bind off 7 sts at the beginning of the next row.
2. 2-2-2 = every 2 rows bind off 2 stitches 2 times.
3. 2-1-5 = every 2 rows decrease 1 stitch 5 times.
4. 4-1-3 = every 4 rows decrease 1 stitch 3 times.
5. 6-1-4= every 6 rows decrease 1 stitch 4 times.
This completes the armhole shaping. The -23 plus the stitch symbol at lower armhole means that a total of 23 stitches should have been decreased from each armhole edge. If we total all of the stitches in steps 1-5 above, we see that this is indeed the case. As further reference, look at the very top of the chart. The line indicating back width shows 27 cm, and 84 stitches remaining. 130 stitches, the amount at the cast on edge, less 46 sts (23 from each armhole) equals 84 stitches.

Now, looking at the armhole length line between Back and Front sections, we see that there are 106 rows between base of armhole and beginning of shoulder shaping. Therefore, knit even to RC 106. In this pattern there are 8 rows for neck shaping, and 8 rows for shoulder shaping. This is shown at the top on the pattern. Numbers at center back line indicate neck depth, and numbers between Back and Front indicate shoulder depth. The neck shaping figures are located inside the Back outline, and the shoulder shaping figures are outside. This is one time I would likely make a “cheat sheet” or T-Bar before knitting, since this involves some fairly complicated shaping. First reset the row counter to 000, as indicated by the arrowheads. We will assume that the carriage is on the right. The line directly above the schematic indicates that there are 13 sts in each shoulder, and 58 sts in the neck. The numeral 44 plus the stitch sign at top of center back line indicates that there are 44 stitches in center back neck. 7 stitches are in the neck shaping on each side. We will assume that the neck and shoulders are shaped by placing stitches into hold position.

RC 000, carriage on right. Place center 44 stitches, plus all other stitches left of center 0 into hold position. Set carriage to hold. Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first holding pos (HP) needle.
RC 001, carriage on left. Place 3 sts at right into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 002, carriage on right. Place 4 sts into HP for neck, Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first HP needle.
RC 003, carriage on left. Place 2 sts into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 004, carriage on right. Place 2 sts into HP for neck, Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first HP needle.
RC 005, carriage on left. Place 3 sts into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 006, carriage on right. Place 1 st into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the left, wrap first HP needle.
RC 007, carriage on left. Place 2 sts into HP for shoulder, Knit 1 row to the right, wrap first HP needle.
RC 008. The funny “T” symbol indicates that shaping is completed at the neck edge, and to knit 2 rows even. Therefore, just Knit 1 row to the left, and DO NOT wrap. 3 sts remain in work position at the shoulder, as indicated by the 3, plus the stitch symbol in parentheses. Push the 10 HP shoulder stitches back about halfway on the bed (upper work position), Knit 1 row over all 13 shoulder stitches, and remove on waste yarn. Return left side to work pos and knit to correspond, reversing the shaping. When shoulder is completed, Knit 1 row main color across back neck sts, then remove on waste yarn.

Front is made similarly. A large intarsia pattern begins 31 rows above the waistband, as indicated by the line across the lower Front, and the row symbol plus numeral 31 on the right side. We will do the armhole shaping, exactly as it is charted. Please note that the same shaping must be worked on both sides.
1. 10 plus stitch symbol = Bind off 10 sts at the beginning of the next row.
2. 2-2-2 = every 2 rows bind off 2 stitches 2 times.
3. 2-1-5 = every 2 rows decrease 1 stitch 5 times.
4. 4-1-2 = every 4 rows decrease 1 stitch 2 times.
5. 6-1-2= every 6 rows decrease 1 stitch 2 times.
This shaping makes the front armhole narrow in faster than the back armhole. Now comes the trickiest part of the whole pattern. We must knit even to the neck edge. However, the row count number for this is not given. We must determine it mathematically. On the left side, the chart indicates there are 36 rows in the neck shaping. There are 106 rows for the armhole, plus an additional 8 rows for the shoulder shaping. 106 plus 8 equal 114 rows for total length above armhole. 114 minus 36 equal 78. Therefore we begin the front neck shaping on RC 78. Front shaping will be a little simpler than the Back, since neck shaping ends before shoulder shaping begins. We know this beacuse the final shaping note at the front neck edge is the numeral 18 plus the funny “T”, idicating 18 rows even after the last shaping row. Since there are 8 rows in the shoulder, there will be 10 rows even, with no shaping, between last neck decrease and first shoulder decrease. We will now write out the actual pattern.
RC 78. Carriage on right. Place center 24 sts, plus all other sts left of center 0 into HP. Set carriage to hold. Knit 1 row across to the left, wrap first HP needle, knit back to right.
RC 80. 2-4-1 = every 2 rows place 4 sts into HP 1 time.
RC 82. 2-3-2 = every 2 rows place 3 sts into HP 2 times.
RC 86. 2-2-1 = every 2 rows place 2 sts into HP 1 time.
RC 88. 2-1-5 = every 2 rows place 1 st into HP 5 times. This completes the neck shaping. Knit even to RC 106, same length as Back to shoulder.

Set row counter to 000. Knit 1 row across to the left. Place 3 sts into HP at right, knit 1 row, wrap first HP needle, knit back to left. Place 2 sts into HP at right, knit 1 row, wrap first HP needle, knit back to left. Place 3 sts into HP at right, Knit 1 row, wrap first HP needle, Knit back to left. Place 2 sts into HP at right, Knit 1 row to left. 3 sts remain in work pos. Push the 10 HP shoulder sts back half way to upper work pos, Knit 1 row to the right with main color, then remove on waste yarn. Return left side to work pos and knit to correspond, reversing all shaping. When left shoulder is completed, Knit 1 row MC across front neck sts, then remove on waste yarn.

Charting Lessons Index

Japanese Charting Lesson 1

Ladies Dolman Sweater Chart

Men’s Tuck Stitch Pullover Sweater Chart

Clearwater Knits Home Page

© 1997 – 2002 by Irene Woods

Email: irenew@clearwater.net